General Pruning Guidance

Many plants benefit from judicious and regular pruning to encourage healthy growth. Pruning is done for many reasons: to keep shape; direct growth; correct structural problems; remove damage; keep a manageable size; to remove dead branches; and to encourage more fruit or flowers. Correct timing is essential:

• Spring pruning stimulates a flush of vigorous growth
• Summer pruning is good for tidying up but avoid heavy pruning as this can stress plants in hot conditions
• Autumn is favourable for cutting branches back to the main stem and to thin out. However, one should avoid encouraging new shoots as these can succumb to winter frosts
• Winter is good for shaping when plants are dormant

Pruning tools need to be functional as well as comfortable to use. They must be sharp and well cared for in order to ensure the pruning work is carried out properly - blunt tools will damage plants. After use, all tools must be cleaned and carefully stored. Oiling the metal parts is advisable if tools are not to be used for a while. Good secateurs, branch loppers and hand shears are all useful tools.

Simple Pruning

Pruning is not all about making cuts:

• Deadheading is a form of pruning to prevent a plant from setting seed and encourage it to keep blooming. Simply pinching the flower off, or removing with sharp secateurs, is the easiest way to deadhead.
• Some plants that naturally grow a straight main stem, for example pelargonium, can be made bushy by "stopping" them. When the young plant is 5cm to 7cm (2in to 3in) tall, pinch out the very tip of the stem. This encourages the development of sideshoots, which makes the plant bush out.

The Right Cut

The position of the cut in relation to a bud is vital, as it will influence subsequent growth. The correct cut should be slightly sloping with the upper part just above a bud. If the cut is too close to the bud, the bud will be damaged. If the cut is too high, the stub will die back and disease can enter. Look at the image below to see the ideal cut.

Winter Flowering Deciduous Shrubs

These require little pruning other than shaping when young and removing the branches that cross the plant's centre. Always cut out pest and disease damaged branches. Prune winter flowering deciduous shrubs as soon as the display is over. This will give the shrubs time to produce new shoots and ripen before the onset of cold weather.

Early Flowering Deciduous Shrubs

This includes shrubs such as Deutzia spp., and Weigela spp. Shrubs that flower between late spring and midsummer should be pruned as soon as their flowers fade. First, cut out thin and weak shoots and those that cross the plant's centre. Then cut to within a couple of buds of their base all shoots that bore flowers. This will keep the young shoots that will bear next years flowers.

Late Summer Flowering Deciduous Shrubs

This includes shrubs such as Hardy Fuchsia, Ceanothus spp., and Spirea japonica. These should not be pruned until late spring of the following year. If pruned straight after flowering the young shoots that subsequently develop will die in the winter as they will be too delicate. First, cut out dead and diseased wood, then those that cross the plant's centre. Cut out thin and weak shoots. Next, cut to just above a bud all those shoots that produced flowers the previous year.

Pruning Evergreen Shrubs

Never prune in winter because young shoots can become damaged. In exceptionally cold areas it best to wait until summer to prune. Otherwise, prune in spring. Pruning only really needs to involve removing dead, diseased or straggly shoots. Evergreen shrubs that are grown for spring or summer flowers, eg Berberis darwinnii, should be pruned once the display has faded.

Rejuvenation

Large, overgrown evergreen shrubs such as Aucuba japonica ‘Variegata' can be rejuvenated by cutting back all stems to within 30cm of the ground in spring.

Pruning Climbers

Some climbers need regular pruning to encourage flowering, while others require no more than to remove dead wood. Spring or early summer flowering climbers require produced the following year to be removed immediately after flowering. Deciduous climbers that flower in summer and autumn should be pruned so that the growth formed in the current season is pruned in early spring.

Pruning Clematis

Clematis is a slightly tricky plant to prune. It falls into three distinct groups, each with their pruning requirements:

• Group 1: early flowering clematis - late spring to midsummer, on shoots from last year
• Group 2: vigorous spring and early summer - flowers on shoots from the previous year
• Group 3: late flowering, summer and autumn - shoots produced in the same season.

a) Group 1 Pruning

Eg Clematis Montana, C.alpina

• Year 1: In late winter, prune back to just above the lowest pair of healthy buds
• Year 2: in late winter cut back by half the lengths of the main shoots developed in the previous year
• Year 3 and subsequent years: In early summer use secateurs to cut back all growth that produced flowers

b) Group 2 Pruning

Eg Florida group cultivars

• Year 1: in late winter cut back the stem to the lowest pair of healthy buds
• Year 2: in late winter cut back by half all the main shoots produced the previous year to just above a pair of healthy buds
• Year 3 and subsequent years: in early summer and midsummer cut out one third of mature shoots to 12in above the base after flowering

c) Group 3 Pruning

Eg Jackmanii hybrids

• Year 1: in late winter prune hard to lowest pair of healthy buds
• Year 2: in late winter cut back each shoot to the lowest pair of healthy buds
• Year 3 and subsequent years: in late winter cut all growth back to leave a pair of strong buds at the base.

General Advice

Pruning can be a tricky process. Each plant has its own needs and there is a great deal to take into consideration. It can also be a great deal of hard work. Horticolour can take care of all your pruning needs. Why not call us now to see what we can do for you!