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you are here: Pest Guidance
Pest Guide There's nothing worse than seeing all your hard gardening work being attacked by unwelcome visitors. Pests can be guilty of minimal damage or they can be responsible for the death of a plant so it is important to deal with them. The natural world is full of a multitude of creepy-crawly beasties, some kind and some harmful, and it can be difficult to ascertain what you are dealing with. The following is a brief guide showing you the type of pest you are likely to come across in your garden, the type of damage it may cause and the action you may take. Simply roll your cursor over the pest picture to see an image of the kind of damage you may expect. 
BLACKFLY The Blackfly is an aphid and attacks most plants, but broad beans and elder bushes are firm favourites. Look out for infestations of large adults clustered around the tips of shoots. Damage is caused by feeding on plant sap and excreting honeydew, which then leads to sooty moulds. Nip out the infected shoot tips as soon as you see any sign of blackfly. Natural predators such as ladybirds can help to keep the population down. Spraying with soft soap or an aphid-specific insecticide can also help. 
CATERPILLARS There are several different types of caterpillar that attack garden plants, but it is mainly on vegetables such as cabbage that problems occur. Caterpillars of the large white butterfly and the small white butterfly are the most problematic. They feed on the leaves, and some may bore into the heart of the plant. Extensive damage can be caused, especially with caterpillars boring into the plant as this leads to rot. Pick off any caterpillars you find and remove any egg clusters you discover on the underside of leaves. Encourage birds into the garden to predate the caterpillars. A lightweight, plastic, small mesh cage over the top of brassicas will prevent the butterflies from getting on to the foliage to lay eggs. Spray Bacillus thuringiensis, a naturally occurring bacterium that kills only caterpillars and not the predatory insects. 
GREENFLY The Greenfly is another pest in the aphid category and will affect pretty much every plant! Again, the damage is caused by honeydew excretions. The pest will primarily gather around the softest parts of the plant, usually shoot tips and the undersides of young leaves. Populations of greenfly can magnify at an alarming rate. Greenfly can be wiped off the plants, sprayed with soft soap or an aphid-specific pesticide. 
RED SPIDER MITE The Red Spider Mite can be a major problem on all plants, especially those in greenhouses or indoors. The tiny pests are barely visible to the naked eye and feed on the underside of leaves. Damage is caused by the pest sucking sap from the leaves, resulting in a pale speckling of the upper leaf. In severe infestations the mites can cause a mass of fine webbing over the plant. When the autumn arrives, the mites turn red and seek out cosy nooks and crannies in the greenhouse to over winter until spring. Red Spider Mites can be difficult to deal with as they have developed a resistance to most pesticides. Prevention is better than cure in this instance - they love dry atmospheres so regular damping down greenhouses and spraying plants with water can help to prevent an attack. All affected leaves and shoots should be removed and destroyed. Insecticides based on plant extracts, such as oil seed rape, can be useful. 
SCALE INSECTS Scale insects are small sap-sucking insects, so called because they produce a waxy coating or "scale" over their soft bodies. Scales usually attack ornamental plants and can be especially troublesome in greenhouses. Citrus plants are a special favourite. They can be difficult to detect, although leaf yellowing or sticky honeydew deposits can be the first signs of infestation. Also look out for tiny brown or orange blobs on the undersides of the leaves near the veins, on the stems or in the leaf joints. Damage is again caused by the honeydew the pest excretes, leading to sooty moulds. Scales can be wiped off with a cotton bud and methylated spirits, followed by washing the leaves in tepid water to remove the mould. Spraying with natural fatty acids is also helpful. 
SNAILS AND SLUGS Snails and slugs will attack almost any soft, lush plant. Hostas are a particular favourite. Hairy or furry plants are usually fairly safe. Snails climb so look out for slime trails and nibbled leaves. Slugs will eat the leaves closer to the ground. These pests will devour the soft green areas between the leaf ribs, leaving a skeleton behind. Slugs can also attack underground and potatoes are a common target. Snails and slugs will lurk in moist nooks and crannies during the day, so try to ensure that there are no hiding places near your plants. A mulch of coarse grit will deter them, as will smearing slug-deterrent gel on containers. Snails and slugs can also be collected by hand and disposed of. Slug pellets are effective but can be harmful to other wildlife. Parasitic roundworms can also be introduced to kill slugs. Containers of beer can also be sunk into the ground to catch and drown the slugs (although this is not always effective!). 
VINE WEEVIL Vine Weevils can be extremely damaging to plants in pots as the grubs feed on roots, corms and tubers. They are especially fond of primulas and cyclamen, but very few plants will escape when the adult weevil is laying eggs. By the time the plant is exhibiting wilted and yellowing foliage it is usually too late to save the plant. Try to monitor plants by checking for notches bitten out of the sides of leaves - this is caused by adult weevils. The soil around susceptible plants can be treated with parasitic roundworms, which will feed on and destroy the pest. Sprinkling grit around the plants can deter egg-laying adults. You can also check on the number of weevils at night-time by shining a torch on the leaves. 
WHITEFLY The Whitefly is mainly a greenhouse pest and is especially fond of fuchsias and tomatoes. It can also attack outdoor brassicas in summer and autumn. Damage is caused by sucking plant sap and excreting honeydew and can lead to the death of the plant. Adult whiteflies can lay up to 250 eggs on the leaves and successive generations through spring to autumn can lead to a dangerously high population. Gently tap the leaves to check for whiteflies - if they are present, clouds of tiny, white triangular moths will emerge. Black sooty mould on the leaves is also an indication. Whiteflies are resistant to most pesticides. Using yellow sticky traps can help to keep numbers down and also helps you monitor how many you have. Companion planting may also help - yellow flowers, such as French marigolds, attract the pests to them and away from your vulnerable plants. Covering your plants with horticultural fleece can prevent the flies laying eggs. Introducing the parasitic wasp Encarsia Formosa to the greenhouse will keep whitefly numbers down.
General Advice Keep plants healthy as healthy plants are less susceptible to pest attack Give plants a thorough inspection once a week, looking at both sides of the leaf If plants show signs of distress (eg, wilting, curling, yellowing) take action Check the soil or mulch around the plant for clues Search for clusters of eggs Keep the soil healthy Ensure a good balance of nutrients in the soil - too much nitrogen encourages soft, leafy growth which pests adore
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